Paris, Dublin

Rogue: Dublin got itself a new beautiful and authentic pizza place

Rogue: Dublin got itself a new beautiful and authentic pizza place

With Manifesto in Rathmines and the Dublin Pizza Company on Aungier Street, Dublin isn't deprived of great Neapolitan-style pizzas. Yet when we hear about a new spot opening up, we cancel all the plans and try to get a table asap.

There is no sign to help you find the place on Pembroke Lane; entering Rogue is like getting into someone's back-garden, quite literally. The owner and chef Suzanne Taylor has set up a woodfire oven behind her gaff and turned the garage and garden into the most hipster joint, with weathered wooden tables, mismatched chairs and vintage plates.   

The menu is simple: six pizzas with classic Italian-style toppings, two salads, two dips and one dessert. Getting the Margarita feels mandatory when trying a new pizza place so we ordered one, and after hesitating with the Bianca (a white pizza without tomato sauce), we went for the Italian, with Serrano ham and rocket. 

Our lovely waitress - a friend of the owner who is just helping her out - warned us there was only one spot in the woodfire oven so the pizzas wouldn't arrive at the same time, which we didn't care about as we wanted to share them anyway. After 30 minutes, she apologized profoundly because there was still no sign of pizza on our table while a couple who had arrived after us had already been served. We liked that she acknowledged it but it didn't matter to us: we love when the food takes a long time to be brought to the table. My boyfriend actually believes that if the first dish is served under 15 minutes (except appetisers and bread), you cannot trust the food. Waiting for our pizzas gave us a chance to enjoy the garden and to have a few glasses of the wine we brought with us - the place is BYO.

The Italian came first, followed quite quickly by the Margarita. You could tell by the look of it that a lot of effort is put into the dough. Perfectly crispy on the outside, it was incredibly tasty and slightly chewy as they make it in Naples. It was topped with a remarkably fresh tomato sauce and some creamy melted mozzarella. For the Italian, the ham and rocket were added after the pizza was cooked.

After we demolished our pizzas, the waitress came back to clear the table and immediately asked us for feedback, which we were happy to share. I would have preferred the ham to get a bit crisp in the oven and might have added a drizzle of olive oil on the Italian, and both pizzas needed a pinch of pepper which I asked for - nothing major preventing me from absolutely loving these pizzas.

Suzanne Taylor did learn from the best - she worked in the Dublin Pizza Company until recently. She has truly mastered the base of her pizza - crust and tomato sauce - and for 11 euros, the Margarita was just perfect. 

We ate until the last bit of crust yet still had room to try the one dessert on the menu: a homemade brownie. Served with a dollop of fresh cream and gooseberries, it had everything we love in a brownie: it was deliciously rich, gooey and very chocolatey.   

Although Rogue is off the beating track, albeit close from the city centre, the word has already spread out and some customers had to be turned down as the place was fully booked for the whole weekend. The friendly atmosphere and fantastic pizza will most certainly turn this project into a huge success in the weeks to come.

Booking: roguepizzadublin(a)gmail.com

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